If you haven’t been to Urban Table, it’s a really cool spot in Prairie Village that is great for brunch. Megan and I have been there quite a few times, usually with friends and family, and it’s always a good time.
Urban Table provides gourmet takes on more traditional items; their breakfast tacos are sublime. If you ever go there, get that! They also have an interesting approach to biscuits and gravy, and so of course I had to take one for the team and try them out!
If the spectrum of biscuits and gravy ranges from more traditional to gourmet, Urban Table’s take on them is solidly near the gourmet side. Yet they are extremely hearty like more traditional approaches to this dish. The presentation is one of the more memorable I have experienced. The dish itself is served in a skillet on a wooden heat diffusing board, which certainly adds to the charm and gives the meal a certain sense of heartiness.
The dish is also garnished with nice little chunks of rather thickly sliced bacon, which is always a bonus in my book. Along with the urban chic vibe of the restaurant you know you’re likely in for a great experience.
The biscuits are solidly non-traditional. Instead of being thick discs like traditional biscuits, they are contoured and varied in shape; I might even describe them as lumpy, although in a good way. They have a more golden color to them than traditional biscuits as well.
These biscuits are decidedly on the savory end of biscuits, being prepared with cheddar and chives. They were baked well, having a nice crunch on the outside.
These are not light biscuits by any means, but are, shall we say, “substantial.” Fortunately, they don’t come off as doughy at all, but are a nice savory biscuit with tons of flavor. In fact, the biscuits are actually the most flavorful part of this dish, and they taste great. If you are a fan of the biscuits one might get at Red Lobster, you will really enjoy these and should expect a similar overall taste.
My only hesitation is that they are a little denser than I would have liked. That doesn’t mean, however, that they were dry. It’s just a lot of biscuit, which means you will definitely be full by the time you work your way through this meal.
The gravy has a nice consistency, and is more towards the thicker side. As you can see from the photos, you get nice large chunks of sausages mingled in, and of course there are the bacon chunks to add to the fun. One challenge with biscuits and gravy as a dish is that you can often get the same flavor profile over and over again, which can make it a chore to eat through, but the bacon here gives a nice change of pace every few bites or so and leaves the dish feeling fresh with each bite. Thus, even though you have some rather dense biscuits with relatively heavy gravy, it ends up feeling lighter than it actually is.
The bacon itself was really well prepared; even though it was thickly sliced it was still crispy but without the greasiness, which speaks to higher-quality bacon. The sausage flavor was more on the subtle side, but the flavor still came through without being overpowering or over salty.
This gravy isn’t spicy or peppery; rather, the flavor of the biscuits combined with the subtlety of the sausage and the occasional spike of flavor from the bacon carries the flavor as a whole. The biscuits are probably the star here in providing the gravy with enough flavor to have good presence in every bite. You actually end up getting just a little bit of sweetness from the gravy, which is an interesting twist from the saltier profile of other biscuits and gravy dishes.
My one concern with the gravy is that the creaminess can be a bit overwhelming. There is a lot of gravy here, and at times it can sort of feel like the dish turns into mush, as the biscuits (to their credit) tend to fall apart when cut, to the point it can feel like eating some sort of mash.
Overall, this is a stand-out dish, full of flavor and interesting little things that make it unique and memorable. I’ve had this many times, and it always stands out in my mind.
Unfortunately, it is at this point that my review has to take a decidedly negative turn. I have eaten this dish several times on different days and at different times, but every time I have eaten it I have afterwards felt sick for the remainder of the day. I don’t know precisely what it is, but there is just something that sticks with me after finishing that causes me to feel nauseated. I am perfectly willing to presume that it is specific to me, but it is hard to recommend a dish that has a track record of inducing nausea in myself.
Thus, while everything about this dish has great marks as far as the experience and flavor are concerned, it’s just the unfortunate reality that a dish just isn’t good if it makes you feel sick, which is ultimately why I have to reluctantly score it as I do.